Accidental Duck and Shiitake Mushroom Broth


I accidentally created something wonderful tonight. I got home late to find a roast duck had been cooked for dinner (yum!) and the duck neck was simmering away to create a stock for later.

After I had reheated my dinner the duck was looking a little dry so I thought I’d whip up a quick sauce by stealing some of the bubbling duck stock. At this point it had been simmering for about an hour; only water and duck neck. I tipped some stock into another pan and started reducing it while thinking of how I was going to turn it into a sauce. I looked for sherry, none. I looked for some appropriate fruit (cherry sauce and duck, yum!), none. I did happen to find some shiitake mushrooms that I bought at Bondi Farmers Markets last sunday. Hmmm duck and shiitake, that sounds like a brothworth combination! I quickly turned the temperature down, added a bit more stock from the main pot, added half a clove of garlic, the other half went into the main pot. I cut off the woody stems of the mushrooms and popped them into the main stock pot, no point in wasting perfectly good umami flavour, sliced the mushrooms and threw them into my broth. A dash of light soy, a pinch of my Murray River pink salt flakes and a healthy grind of pepper and we are close to done. I thank the principles of permaculture zoning when I dash out into the incessant rain to gather some shallots from my zone 1 garden bed outside the kitchen window. Sliced into 1cm lengths they are thrown into the broth, a quick taste and it is in need of some finishing love. Half a teaspoon of white sugar, a tiny pinch of Chinese five spice and another grind of pepper and it is perfect. Add a little more pepper than you usually would, it will go well with the rich mushroom and duck flavours.

My very well meaning father got a little heavy handed with the Saxa salt when he roasted the duck which luckily led me to perfecting this dish! I shredded some of the duck meat and put it into my broth. The silky mushrooms like little slugs trying to escape my mashing molars, the fatty and yielding dark duck flesh and the subtle hint of spice in the meaty broth, perfect and accidental!

As with many of my favourite dishes, this one unfortunately did not survive long enough for picture taking. However, a quick dig into an embarrassingly growing collection of photos of myself eating revealed some sumptuous duck eating to inspire you towards your next duck purchase.

 

 

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Sunday Dinner: Osso Bucco, Braised Leek & Purple Kale and Rhubard & Strawberry Crumble

Pictures only for now…

 

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Pulled Pork & Shredded Beetroot Burger

Today, a lazy Saturday, I happened by Bondi Farmers Markets. Being in what I call ‘recovery mode’ after a night of wintry fun (think mulled wine and warm cider) and ice skating at the Bondi Winter Festival I followed my nose to salvation. It was a pulled pork burger with a shredded beetroot salad and gravy, it smelled of caramelised garlic and savoury sweet pork. The pork was lean and tender and came away in delicate salty strings with the tangy dressed beetroot tying these strings into the perfect mouthful.

I love the idea of the shredded beetroot on a burger, it  echoes the slab of mushy canned beetroot found on any good local burger shop’s ‘works burger’. Maybe that recipe for my home grown candy striped betroot will find itself on a burger!

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From the Garden: Candy Stripe Beetroot

Straight from the garden to my mouth – with a stop off at omnomnom – is my candy stripe beetroot. This is an italian heirloom variety called Chioggia. I planted these babies about two months ago and I have been rooting around their roots (yeah whatever!) every few weeks waiting until one was big enough to harvest. As you can see from the picture there are concentric red and white rings of juicy beet.

I am a sucker for any kind of plant that isn’t the color it should be. Purple french beans, love it. Rainbow colored chillies, can’t resist. Yellow tomatoes taste better! I spotted these in the extensive catalogue at Eden Seeds, and they had to be mine. A few days later and the magic that is nature was unfolding in my garden in the form of candy stripe beetroot.

Two long months later and I can tell you it was worth it. Sweet and mild and fairly juicy, these didn’t even make it into a salad. Not woody like a normal beetroot they are wonderful on their own. They may appear in an omnomnom recipe soon!

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Lamb Shank Tagine With Prunes and Dressed Israeli Cous Cous

Dinner tonight was a lamb shank tagine with prunes served with Israeli cous cous. Yum! This recipe was from a book, i’ll give the reference when I can be bothered. I’m not going to say much about this one, I think the picture speaks for itself. And trust me it was melt in the mouth, cinnamon spicy, sticky sweet goodness.

I couldn’t just serve the cous cous on the side undressed so I quickly fried up a small onion and garlic. In the mean time I finely diced some zucchini to fry with the onion, some extra butter may have found its way into the pan. With some diced tomato, chopped flat leaf parsley, a squirt of lemon juice and some seasoning it was good to go.

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Slow Braised and BBQ’d Pork Ribs

This recipe was so good that they didn’t last long enough to take a photo! Oh well, I guess i’ll have to cook them again…

Spice Rub

  • Coriander seeds
  • Cumin seeds
  • Fennel seeds
  • Whole black pepper
  • Cayenne pepper

Dry fry the whole spices until you start to get wafts of the pungent spices filling your nostrils. Tip all of the spices into a mortar with a pinch of salt to help the spices break down. Grind until you get a course powder, don’t go too crazy here getting everything perfectly blended. Add the cayenne pepper to suit your perceived tolerance to chilli. At this point if there is anyone else in the house they will come wandering into the kitchen enquiring about the wonderful aroma floating around. Tell them that if they are very lucky you will share some of your creation with them, for a price! Drizzle some olive oil onto the ribs then massage them with the spice mixture. Ensure that the ribs are nice and relaxed before putting them aside while we prepare our braising marinade. Leaving the ribs covered in the spice rub overnight will intensify the flavour, but I doubt you will have the self control to wait that long at this stage.

Braising Liquid

This is where the real secret to flavour lies; roasted duck bone stock braising liquid. I happened to have some of this stock in the freezer, which I will have to write up the recipe for so you too can enjoy the full flavour benefit. If you don’t happen to have any roasted duck bone stock on hand just use any stock, or water if you are really desperate.

  • Roasted duck bone stock
  • Light soy sauce
  • Sweet soy sauce
  • Juice of a few oranges
  • Orange zest
  • Honey
  • Brown sugar
  • Red wine
  • Worcestershire sauce
  • Garlic
  • Thyme
  • Bay leaf
  • Cayenne pepper
  • Black pepper to taste
  • And pork ribs of course, as many as you can afford!

Mix all of these ingredients together. You may have noticed that I haven’t included any quantities, for mixtures like this it is all about taste. So taste. Think about what would make it so tasty that you almost feel like pouring yourself a glass and slurping it down. The idea is that you want to balance sweet, sour and salty.  After you have finished with your creation find a baking dish that fits all of your ribs snuggly and put your braising liquid and ribs in, only putting enough liquid to come half way up your ribs. Cover and bake at 140C for at least three hours.

Once your ribs are tender and almost falling off the bone don’t eat them! Take them out of the baking dish and pour the liquid into a saucepan and start reducing the liquid. Now is time to fire up the BBQ to get these ribs finger lickingly sticky and smokey. You need the BBQ very hot because you are only going to cook the ribs for a minute or two on each side, flames are good! Put your ribs on the BBQ and baste with your reduced braising liquid. The liquid should be adding a sticky sweet coating on the outside of your ribs which you will desperately want to be inside YOUR ribs. When you are happy with your ribs remove them from the BBQ. By this stage they probably won’t make it to a plate, enjoy!

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The day of eating

Today was a designated day of eating. I know, most days seem to be dedicated to eating but today was particularly so! I don’t know the proper names of most of what I ate today, but hopefully the photos will help you to understand the delicious day of eating.

The day begun with a short (35 baht) cab ride from our apartment which is called ‘The Box’ or ‘Da Bok’ by Bangkok cabbies to Mahidol University. We found our way to one of the many eateries on campus. A brown wooden hut nestled amongst the stark faculty buildings which gets crazy busy at lunch time with many a hungry Thai local student. We ordered two bowls of noodles and some rice paper rolls. Simple enough? I don’t know how they get so much flavor into a little bowl of noodles. Maybe it is just a perfect blend, thin bouncy egg noodles, a handful of bean sprouts, darkly toasted peanuts, sweet and salty slivers of roast pork, oh so crunchy pork crackling, coriander, lime juice, vinegar, fish sauce, sugar and of course chili in powder and fresh form. Did I leave something out? Probably.

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The rice paper rolls seemed simple, but again packed full of flavor. Maybe it’s the black sesame and chili flakes rolled into the paper that gives them a kick. A simple filling of vermicelli noodles and a wrap it yourself basil leaf and you have all the freshness and flavor you could want without even the need for a dipping sauce. Well that’s breakfast done. Another 35 baht trip back to Da Bok for my post breakfast nap and I’ll soon be ready for my next course.

This is my favourite dish…in the world! I don’t really know if i’m joking, this dish from Krua Apsorn (ครัวอัปษร) in Bangkok. Mentioned in this Gormet Traveller article.

(One day i’ll finish this post!)

Deep fried fish with green mango salad:

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Roti with massaman chicken:

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A beer to cool off:

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Spicy steamed fish with crab fried rice:

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Om nom nom – all about eating

Ok I wanted to select a good picture for my first post, so I went looking through photos from my recent trip to Thailand…about an hour later I found the right one. Is it bad that it took me so long to choose my first food picture to put up? Nah! Am I now hungry? Yup!

It’s called ‘kanom buang’ (ขนมเบื้อง).

How do I describe kanom buang? I’ll start and end with the first bite; delicately crispy crepe thin wafer crumbles around campfire melted marshmallowly soft meringue, then the sweetness hits. Imagine whipped sweetened condensed milk, it’s intense, but balanced with the nuttiness of the wafer. Then you hit the golden core, the sticky strands of candied duck egg yolk add a richness that you know can’t be good for the arteries. As you lick your fingers and contemplate the dozen kanom buang left in front of you – that cost all of 30 baht ($1) – you wonder if you maybe bought too many. Then you remember that first bite.

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